Feeble Stall
Sign in to add this trick to your list.
Shown for a regular-footed rider. Teal ring + arrow = the rider's facing direction; teal band = the tail; a dot is where a hand holds the board - bright yellow for the front hand, amber for the back one, which is the whole difference between a mute and an indy. Board and rider rotate independently - each follows its own component. Drag to orbit.
How it works
A rear-truck stall in which the front of the board tips over the coping so the nose points down the deck side, toe rail resting against the lip - the stalled cousin of the feeble grind. The lock is what makes it: the back hanger takes the weight while the front third of the deck leans over the far side of the coping, giving a distinctive jack-knifed silhouette. The exit demands lifting the nose back over the coping before pivoting in, which is where most attempts hang up.
Step by step
- Approach with a backside angle as for an axle stall.
- Pivot the rear truck onto the coping, but instead of leveling the deck, push the nose down over the far side of the lip.
- Let the deck's toe-side rail rest against the coping, back truck carrying your weight.
- Balance in the feeble lock, front foot pressing the tipped nose gently.
- Draw the nose up and back over the coping, pivot on the rear truck, and drop back into the transition.
Body mechanics
| Front foot | Presses the nose down into the feeble lock, then pulls it back over the coping to exit. |
|---|---|
| Back foot | On the tail, weight over the rear axle - the only load-bearing contact. |
| Shoulders | Turned to face the deck side slightly more than in an axle stall, matching the tipped board. |
| Arms | Leading arm out over the ramp as a counterweight against the nose-over lean. |
| Gaze | At the coping and nose through the lock; shift to the transition as you lift out. |