Stalefish
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Shown for a regular-footed rider. Teal ring + arrow = the rider's facing direction; teal band = the tail; a dot is where a hand holds the board - bright yellow for the front hand, amber for the back one, which is the whole difference between a mute and an indy. Board and rider rotate independently - each follows its own component. Drag to orbit.
How it works
The back hand wraps behind the back leg and grabs the heel-side rail between the feet - an awkward, contorted reach that produces one of the best-looking grabs in skateboarding. The behind-the-leg path forces the rear shoulder down and back and pushes the knees forward, tweaking the whole silhouette; unlike the indy there is no lazy way to a stalefish, which is precisely its cachet.
Step by step
- Air out of the coping with a touch more float than an indy needs - the reach takes time.
- Compress hard and thread your back hand behind your back knee toward the heel-side rail.
- Grab the rail between your feet, letting the rear shoulder drop and the knees push forward.
- Tweak the grab through the peak, pulling the board up behind you.
- Unthread the hand early on the way down, level the board, and extend into the re-entry.
Body mechanics
| Front foot | Presses the nose down slightly to balance the tail lift the grab creates. |
|---|---|
| Back foot | On the tail, knee driving forward to open space for the hand behind it. |
| Shoulders | Rear shoulder dips and rotates back with the reach; front shoulder stays over the nose. |
| Arms | Back hand threads behind the leg to the heel rail; front arm stretches away for counterbalance. |
| Gaze | Down at the re-entry over the front shoulder - the head does not follow the contortion. |